West Highland Way - Page 2

Milarrochy - Rowchois Bothy

Frozen, I was glad to get up and walk. Stefan, thank goodness, had a stove with him, so there was early coffee. I hadn’t thought of that. Today, the route ran partly along the shore, partly along a narrow rocky path along Loch Lommond. Through the small village of Rowardennan, past Rob Roys Prison, our destination was a bothy in the woods, Rowchois Bothy. The weather played along, and so I was hoping for a drier warmer night. Arrived there in the totally idyllic hut, we first looked for wood and made fire in the fireplace.

We met some hikers on the way and thought there would be a few more people, but we should stay alone. It took until the fire was ready with the damp wood, but then it was really cozy. The sleeping bags were spread out on a wooden platform, after which food and drink were consumed. Before the door of the hut you could see nothing at night, not even the hand in front of your face, it was absolute calm in the forest, already somewhere unusual. Unfortunately at night, after the fire had gone out, it quickly cooled down again, and so I froze again.

Rowchois Bothy - Beinglas Farm

After the hot coffee we walked on dry foot on the rocky shore of Loch Lommond to the end of the lake. We pass many waterfalls, walking is difficult, over large boulders up and down, you can hardly make any progress. A couple of kilometers after the end of the lake there is another bothy at a creek, Doune Bothy. We looked inside, she looks a little more noble, but we have to do a few more meters. The road gets better and we’ll be in the Highlands soon. Today we also meet some more hikers, some came to meet us.

You can also often see Scotsmen jogging along parts of the WHW, usually in shorts, weather-technically they are painless 🙂. Shortly before today’s finish we pass another Englishman, Rick, he should meet us several times. As Stefan learned from him in the evening, he travels through Great Britain from South to North. Hats off. Beinglas Farm, today’s stage destination, is the most beautiful camping site on the route, after setting up the tent there was the first hot shower after 3 days, wonderful. With Scottish beer and the national dish Haggis (filled sheep’s stomach) we sat for a few hours in the campground pub.

Beinglas Farm - Tyndrum

Before we walk to the Highlands, we had breakfast at the pub today. The climbs became longer, the surrounding mountains more mighty. Along the right bank of the Falloch River we hike along a comfortable path past picturesque rapids, small gorges and waterfalls. After Derrydorach we cross the river, shortly after a low underpass, which was intended for cattle, leads to the other side of the valley. At Crianlarich we have already half the West Highland Way behind us. One more up and down through the woods, then we cross the main road and pass the ruins of the monastery of St. Fillan.

The final kilometers to Tyndrum are surrounded by meadows near the River Fillan. At the rocky riverbank we have a picnic, otherwise we are too early in Tyndrum. The mountain scenery around the village is impressive. Also the campground here is very well maintained, but nothing there to warm up, because it became increasingly icy in the evening. Since it is the last shopping opportunity to Kinlochleven, we filled up in the village again properly food. Stefan’s cooker was worth gold again, hot noodles warmed us up for a short time before we went to the frosty tent to rest.