St. Francis' Way - Page 3

Badia Prataglia - Pieve Santo Stefano

Early in the morning we went uphill again, how could it be otherwise. But around noon the first highlight of the way awaited us - La Verna. The weather played along, only the paths were extremely muddy from the rain of recent days and the streams overflowed, there it was always: shoes off. The forest trail leads steadily uphill to P. della Cesta, then back down into the mountain village of Frassineta. Here we got lost by 1 kilometer, but rarely happened to us. Beautiful views accompany us again, everywhere beautifully wooded mountains. Today we also met several pilgrim couples, but quickly lost sight of them again.

After another climb, we descended steeply to Rimbocchi. We thought about whether we treat ourselves to a cappuccino in the idyllic place, but decided against it, the way today was very far. He led then first over the stream here in the village, it was almost a river, and immediately after beautiful forest paths steeply uphill towards Poggio Montopoli. Some time later we walked through the forest of La Verna with beautiful beech trees and moss-covered rocks, until at some point a high rock appears on the left, with the monastery on top. We walked up a steep paved path to the entrance gate of the monastery, before entered a kind of forecourt. It was pleasantly warm by now, few people were here, and a gigantic view awaited. We rested here for an hour, looked at everything.

The monastery was an important station in the life of Francis, but all these explanations I leave out at this point, thanks to Google, you can find everything about it. After the obligatory photo at the cross of La Verna, we had to leave slowly. It went downhill again, past the village of Chiusi della Verna in the direction of Gregnano. After the idyllic place it should go according to GPS and guidebooks over a meadow through the forest upwards, but there was no more way to find. So we took the quiet road, later a path to Montalone. From there we went downhill, through Mignano, through farms, until we were on the road to Pieve Santo Stefano.

On this there was then also a sign to our B&B Il Castellare (30 € per person with breakfast), always with signposts in the form of the Greek dew, which Francis used to sign. Even that was of no use to us, we found the accommodation only with difficulty. It was just a long distance today, we were hungry. Finally arrived, we had a huge room for us, everything was great here. But first we walked along the main street into the town center and did some shopping, then we went to a pizzeria. Our landlady was so nice and picked us up from there by car. After destroying our alcohol supplies, we were ready for a deep sleep.

Pieve Santo Stefano - Sansepolcro

The next morning at breakfast we only got to know that some other pilgrims had spent the night here. So there was also early the first exchange of experiences, we got going relatively late. Yesterday we had already arrived in the Tiber Valley, the river that we encountered again in Rome a little more powerful, today we should see it several times. The path today started gently, later came a few climbs, but easier to walk than those of past days. The weather was good today, after the last mountain was mastered, the path ran past a reservoir, past idyllic country estates, always slightly downhill. We met Birgit, she had started today before us and ran the way to Assisi alone. After some exchange of experiences, she was also able to take a joint photo of us. The further way went steeply next to the forest under telephone poles down again into the Tiber Valley.

Once in the green valley, the remaining stretch, initially dirt road, then road, to Sansepolcro was dead straight for miles. Here we realized how much we had the mountains had gotten used to, it was boring to walk. Also the long suburb of Sansepolcro was not the most beautiful, we had to cross the Tiber, was suddenly unpleasant after pure nature again to enter a hectic city. After some search we found our today's hostel, the Refugio of the church Santa Maria dei Servi (12 € per person without breakfast). Was very spartan here, but what more do you want than a roof over your head, a shower and something to eat. Speaking of food. If we never had problems finding a restaurant or pizzeria before, this was a problem in the city to Saturday. All Italians go out to eat with their families today. Ultimately, however, it worked out, in a noisy pub.

On the stroll home we met Birgit again at a bar. Arrived, full and with suitable Morettikonsum we could now chat and laugh together even more relaxed. So it had become a nice evening.