St. Francis' Way - Page 10

Poggio Mirteto - Monterotondo

After the typical Italian breakfast of shrink-wrapped sweets, Manu never ate any of that stuff, we walked into town to the bus. Due to our change of plans the routes were no longer manageable in one day, we had to skip parts, because return flight and the last accommodation before Rome were booked. I also had to make a 20 € deposit at the next hotel. So today we had to get to Monterotondo. The plan was: take the bus to Farfa or Fara in Sabina, then walk to Monterotondo. But here I made a big mistake, I should have distinguished Fara in Sabina and Fara Sabina. And now?

It was raining cats and dogs and we were standing in front of a train station in Fara Sabina, far from the pilgrim path. There were trains to Rome, via Monterotondo, but suddenly the pilgrimage through the beautiful nature came to an end. Out of the blue. We decided to take the train to Monterotondo, where we spent a few hours in the station cafe, the sky had opened the floodgates again. At some point we tackled the last kilometers to the not so beautiful city and moved into our accommodation (Albergo dei Leoni, room 62 € with breakfast). It was very nice. After the usual errands and a tour of the city - Manu was in the meantime fascinated by a typical Italian wedding in the cathedral - we planned the last day to Rome.

Except for a nice piece through the nature reserve Marcigliana, the path led mostly through suburbs, first of Monterotondo, then of Rome. I knew the suburbs of Rome already from the Jerusalemweg, not so tingly. But more important was that tomorrow at Pentecost at 12 o'clock we could see Papa Francesco. But that could not be done by walking. The only possibility was that we would have to travel this part of the way by train. At dinner we met another pilgrim couple, they had also skipped this part. Arrived in Rome, they found because of the Pentecost no accommodation and now commuted a few days between Rome and Monterotondo.

Monterotondo - Rome

Today it was finally time - arrival Rome. After the horrible way from the accommodation to the train station, we took the train to Trastevere. Arrived there, we went first through a terribly hectic market that stretched for miles. At the end we could then finally turn to the Tiber, here I said goodbye then my faithful pilgrim stick, he swam now near Ostia in the sea. The time today was tight, first visit the Vatican for the Pentecost speech, 15 o'clock then opens the pilgrim accommodation. 4 p.m. Salvatore is already waiting for the city tour. But our plans mostly worked. So we first walked along the busy main street along the Tiber for a few kilometers in the direction of Castel Sant'Angelo, and then turned left in the direction of Vatican City.

Until 12 o'clock there was still some time, so we visited a cafe (cappuccino 6 € !!!) and enjoyed the view of the basilica. Then we had to go through the security check, with our backpacks always a problem. A woman in front of us spectacled loudly because she wanted to take a wine bottle inside, but was not allowed. Short and dry, she was denied entry. We were only allowed into the first fence, the second was off limits for us. There was still some time, so we went to get our pilgrimage certificate at the Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi. Then Papa Francesco appeared at the window of the Apostolic Palace. The speech lasted only about 10 minutes, of course, one could hardly recognize him at the distance, but the atmosphere around Francis and the Vatican is nevertheless a special one.

We still had a few hours before the pilgrims' hostel opens and walked to Castel Sant'Angelo and Campo de'Fiori, where Giordano Bruno looks accusingly towards the Vatican. Back in Trastevere, we spent some more time down by the Tiber Island, one of the few spots here where one could escape the traffic noise. Later, in front of the pilgrim hostel was already waiting another pilgrim (Via dei Genovesi, donation). At 3 p.m. we were admitted, we had to leave our backpacks and shoes in the garden before we could do the formalities upstairs. Many pilgrims were here, most of them coming from the Via francigena, that is, the way from Switzerland through Tuscany towards Rome. I was already here in 2014 as a Jerusalem pilgrim and knew the strict rules here.

One was allowed to stay here for 2 days, there was breakfast and dinner, on the first day one could undergo a ritual foot washing. A strict Christian procedure, but everything was relaxed, and we learned a lot of information from like-minded people. But we were still pressed for time, Salvatore was waiting for us outside with his wife. I knew him from 2014, I had met him and his pilgrim friends on the Via appia when I left Rome and went on pilgrimage to Brindisi. It was getting exciting, in typical Italian driving style we meandered past the Pyramid of Cestius towards San Paolo fuori le Mura. There was little time, in the evening Salvatore still had his family to visit and we had to be back for dinner. So everything went a little faster.

After the strict security check, we entered this wonderful building. It's hard to describe, one have to see it. After that we drove to San Giovanni in Laterano with Michelangelo's Mose and the Scala Santa, the holy stairs, which one may ascend only on knees. Then time was already up, after a beer in a bar Salvatore brought us back. It was raining heavily by now and we were slightly tired by the abundance of impressions. After the extensive dinner including foot washing we went to the deserved rest.