Camino francés - Page 13

El Cebreiro - Calvor (ca. 37 km)

The sun was rising as we took off. It was miserably cold and windy. Until breakfast 8 km further on at Alto di Ponio we still had some mountains on an empty stomach to overcome. But once there, a warm fireplace and the longed for Cafe con Lecce awaited us. Since Klaus from everywhere called his girlfriend I could not resist this time and called my son Paul in the cafe to hear how he was doing. After the reassuring call, we tackled the long descent. It dragged on, slowly we all got in the mood to finally arrive in Santiago. In Triacastella we took a break in a dive, there was nothing to eat here. We had to drag ourselves 12 km further, there Jana knew a bar, which has open with high probability. Through several villages, uphill and downhill, in cloudy weather we eventually reached Pintun. We were rewarded with a rich menu in a cozy ambience.

But we were short on time. It was barely 2 km to Calbor, but it was snowing heavily and already getting dark. The Hospitalera already called and wanted to go home. She had Jana's number, because Jana always made sure on the way whether the planned hostels are also open. In general Jana knew all the contingencies on the Camino well. She walked her first Camino in the nineties. Her sister had severe epileptic seizures and she wanted to help her with the path and constant prayers. And it helped, she says. You can think what you want I believe in everything I don't know any better. You can see how far she's come by the way she walks. She runs incredibly fast and needs few breaks, but many cigarettes 🙂. Finally arrived, we had a small warm hostel for us. We moved into our beds, in the Galician hostels are raised on the mattresses a kind of thin cover, because of the hygiene. In the morning then the fabric goes into the garbage. After the long hot shower and a few cans of beer, however, we went straight to rest.

Calvor - Gonzar (ca. 35 km)

We started in the dark and had to watch every step, everything was iced. Only after 6 km, in Sarria there was something for breakfast. Also in the city, everywhere ice and sliding vehicles, just do not risk anything so close to the finish. After Sarria it went again on forest roads along, right at the beginning a giant guy came towards us. He was shaking, hands and legs, his eyes were twitching. Jana talked with him for quite a while, while I studied him. Jana was a sensitive soul and I could see by her face that she was moving something. We said goodbye to the pilgrim and she translated for us. He had walked the Camino along the coast to Santiago and was currently walking the Camino frances back. Through France it went on for him to Rome and down to Jerusalem. He had planned for just under a year at his limited walking pace. He had left professional and private obligations behind and saw only one goal - to cure his illness. I guessed Parkinson's disease, but there's no cure for that. So I don't know. When I feel less well, I still think about this man, what hope and determination he radiated. His fate moved us all very much.

It was mostly cloudy today, the forest trails were flooded, our shoes were soaked through at times. On the way we met another guy, who told some stories and begged for money. Later we had a coffee in a small bar run by an old woman and her daughter. She told us about the beggar, he lived here on the Camino. In Portomarin we took our not so good pilgrim menu to us. The town is beautifully situated on a hill by a large lake. The last 6 km were along the main road. The hostel in Gonzar was also on the road. It was open, the old hospitalero arrived later. For the small village was the accommodation was very modern and well kept, we found everything that was necessary. However, there was no possibility to buy something to eat or drink. The hospitalero sold us a few things from his private stock. Klaus was in a bad mood, already a few days without a phone, in addition now still his cigarettes will run out. No te queres (Don't complain) we both teased him. But after a few cans of beer, it was bedtime buzz.