Jerusalem way - Page 8

Siena - Sutri

Today I was allowed to walk again through the unique old town of Siena. And who did I meet among the crowds in front of the cathedral? Alain and Gabrielle. They had taken a hotel here and had to stay two days, there were problems with Alain's credit card, a new one had to be sent first. It was another beautiful walking route today, mostly just roads, but scenically wonderful. In Ponte d'Arbia I took the first bar to inquire about lodging. There sat Yolande, a pilgrim from Canada, he already had the key for it and showed me the small, quaint hostel. It was empty, we could each choose one of the rooms. Behind the house stood a few donkeys, idyllic here. I had to eat dinner in the bar again, there was nothing else here. In the pilgrim book of the hostel you can always see who else is on the way, so many as on other paths are not here.

Scenic wonderful, although a lot of road, the way today led slightly hilly to San Quirico d'Orcia. There were hardly any towns on the way, only fields and meadows. Relaxing, you are alone with your thoughts. San Quirico d'Orcia itself is beautiful, many small churches and a very well kept park. The Ostello was still closed, I walked around a bit. However, you should be there in time, 200 km before Rome are increasingly bike pilgrims on the road, since it is quickly full. Which was also the case now. In the evening, a decent thunderstorm moved up, looks good over the green hilly landscape.

In the morning, the trail first leads out of town on small roads before walking along the trunk road for a few hours. However through little developed terrain, mostly in beautiful countryside. Only in the last third the path turns left steeply up a mountain. It becomes more and more beautiful, forests, high flower meadows, here and there a ruin. In the dreamy mountain village of Radicofani there is a wonderfully cared for hostel of the Brotherhood of St. James. It was also well filled, the first time I was offered the ritual foot washing here, later in Rome too. Good supply was here inclusive, so I was only briefly for beers on the Piazza San Pietro and at the castle at the top of the hill. For the first time I also saw a Japanese pilgrim, pilgrimage there is probably less popular or still developing.

The next day I leave Tuscany, after Lombardy, Emiglia Romana and Tuscany I enter the province of Lazio. Downhill it goes first through the beautiful lonely mountain landscape on small ways, before one meets in just under half large roads. On the last kilometer up the steep mountain to the destination Acquapendente, a young woman stopped and wanted to give me a ride. I had to refuse as a foot pilgrim, unfortunately. Did I walk around so miserably? 🙂? In the Casa del Pellegrino I was alone again this time, so I went to the local Coop and got me something to eat and Moretti. On the way I read, the day after tomorrow there is a Via Francigena Marathon here, from Acquapendente to Montefiascone. Unfortunately, I cannot participate with my backpack 🙂.

After the suburbs and an industrial area, the path then stretched hilly and beautiful to look at through woods and meadows to the large Lago di Bolsena. The last kilometers led along the shore of the lake and I considered whether I should camp again. But it looked like rain, so I took lodging in a nunnery. A wet tent is heavy, I reminded myself 🙂. In the late afternoon I went walking extensively on the lake shore.

For a long time, the route today led near the lake at the foot of isolated mountains. Then it went steadily uphill to Montefiascone, scenically beautiful again, alternating forests and meadows. There were quite a few pilgrims on the road, but clearly, many start just before Rome. One walked today on parts of the original, about 2000 years old Roman road, the Via Cassia. Also, after Montefiascone we passed red meadows full of poppies and fields, until just before Viterbo, today's destination. I spent the night in the local Capuchin monastery. The accommodation was full, with effort I still got a place, which was reflected at night then also reflected in the noise level.

Scenically very varied, the path continued: narrow forest paths, high avenues, the greenery changes constantly. Steeply uphill to the beautiful Lago di Vico, it goes then just as varied to Sutri. The accommodation here belonged to a Carmelite monastery, the women there were not allowed to communicate directly with men, a wooden lattice was between us. What is also fascinating, how poor the monastery looks from the outside and how magnificent from the inside. Always worth a visit in Italy, to look into every shabby church. Usually a pearl can be found.