Jerusalem way - Page 10

Rome - Mignano Monte Lungo

Early, it became violent for me. Goodbye Rome, goodbye Alain and Gabrielle. I cried. Also, the probability was not great to meet pilgrims on the way to Brindisi. So I passed the Villa of Maxentius and the catacombs on the Via Appia antica out of Rome. An Italian woman on a horse asked me if I had some water. Yes of course, my bottles are always full in the morning. She led me to a woman lying on the ground half in her underwear. She drank the water and told me that she was going on pilgrimage from Rome to Jerusalem. Hmm, well, some doubts were justified, she had probably collapsed in the heat. But well, initial problems I also had. On the way I met a group of Santiago pilgrims who were going in the opposite direction to Rome. Funny group, with Salvatore from Rome I still have contact today.

Continuing through Lazio, the path of the Via Francigena del Sud first went to Marino. Initially still beautiful on the Via Appia, it became increasingly more road. So also the following day to Artena. On a road through a wooded area, the mostly black street prostitutes sat on their chairs at the edge. The places were now on high hills with brilliant panoramic views, the last kilometers up to the Albergo Chiocchiò were therefore very steep. Just showered in the hostel and sitting on the bench with a beer, I thought: The two look like German pilgrims. And right, there I met Gernot and Roland. We got along very well and ran until Benevento mostly together. Since then I had it easier, Roland spoke perfect Italian.

Again mostly along the roads led the way to Anagni. But good to run, through less hectic towns and more in the green the route ran. The last kilometers went uphill again into the town. The Cistercian monastery was quickly found and relaxation was announced in the heat. However, I should have studied the prices in the first bar, 7 € the bottle of beer, I took it as my supper 🙂. The next day, the route led mostly over field paths and side roads to Veroli. First slightly downhill, it became more mountainous again before Ferentino. Passing isolated mountains, the route stretched through a dry valley before it went at the end of a bare mountain ridge high in the village. Since one thinks, they would have made it here already, they later see, that the accommodation still lies much higher 🙂. But the view from there was awesome.

In the morning we went downhill again, passing a few small settlements, this path again ran beautifully past fields, but also small wooded areas. On the way we stopped for a rest at a family whose probable hobby was to intercept pilgrims, to entertain and tell them stories. Quite lovely 🙂. After that was in Ceprano station, here we took for once a cheap hotel room. From Ceprano it went at first scenically beautiful further, only shortly before Cassino it became more urban again, with industrial area and suburbs. In the meantime it rained again. But the beautiful Monte Cassino was already in view. Here stands the most important Benedictine monastery. Besides its very interesting history, Benedict is buried here. In the cafe we discussed how the accommodation should look today, it was again a cheap hotel.

The mountains on the left in view I ran first alone in the morning. It went again all day long along the road, but with beautiful views of isolated standing mountains. The Italians drive chaotically, honk often, stop where they like. And yet, on the whole way through Italy, I saw only one accident. And there was a german motorhome involved. I don't know any more considerate drivers than the Italians. After Lazio, it went now through Campania. Behind the serpentines between 2 mountains, there was a huge military monument on the hillside.

After that, the road continued dead straight past Mignano Monte Lungo, I had to be careful not to miss the turnoff to the accommodation. Arrived at the agriturismo, I did not dare to enter. I no longer have a fear of dogs, but there stood an animal, as large as a full-grown sheep. But the friendly owner brought me in. It was great here, we chatted for a long time, then I was assigned a small neat wooden house and enjoyed a substantial dinner and some beers. Gernot and Roland also came and it was a cozy evening. I still have contact with Annunziato, the owner.